Heavenly Haida Gwaii—Vita, November 14, 2018
This article was written by Lise Boullard and originally published in Vita on November 14, 2018
A stay in (on?) a new floating luxury lodge offers the experience of a lifetime.
stay. An hour-long charter flight to Sandspit airport from Vancouver and a 10-minute helicopter ride over teal-coloured lakes and emerald forests brings you to the floating Ocean House Lodge, nestled against the banks of Moresby Island in the quiet waters of Peel Inlet. Opened for its inaugural season in May 2018, the lodge is one of three Haida-owned and operated inns in the network of 150 remote islands that make up Haida Gwaii’s archipelago off of B.C.’s west coast. With its friendly staff, fine dining program and high-end amenities, this 16,000-square-foot retreat provides a comfortable and luxurious base from which to experience wild Pacific Ocean waters, a mystical temperate rainforest and ancient attractions in an area that has been occupied by the Haida people for more than 13,000 years.
settle in. Haida interior designer Gina Mae Schubert helped transform the former fishing barge into a home-away-from-home in the heart of nature using modern contemporary décor touches, cedar wood detailing, Haida motifs and photos depicting historical indigenous scenes. After days filled with exhilarating outdoor adventure (more on that below), you’ll relish the Ocean House Lodge’s many amenities, which include a library, spa, theatre, lounge, dining room, terrace—not to mention, the ridiculously comfortable beds in each of its 12 guest cabins.
step out. Whether you feel like curling up with a book on the L-shaped couch in the fireside lounge or want to set off on open water to visit an ancient Haida village where centuries-old totems still stand, the lodge offers an array of activities to suit every whim. Head out on one of the group adventures organized daily by the culturally knowledgeable staff (who serenaded us with traditional Haida songs while we stood breathless in ancient cedar forests on more than one occasion) or grab a kayak or stand-up paddle board and explore the quiet waters of Peel Inlet on your own. You could also pop into the on-site studio and speak with the Haida artist in residence as he or she works (and even purchase a piece to take home with you). Whatever you do, don’t miss the opportunity to take the traditional cedar canoe out for a spin—preferably while singing a traditional Haida paddling song. The highlight of the trip for many in our group!
savour. Chef Brodie Swanson is known for bringing upscale flair to traditional aboriginal cuisine and his talents—as well as the area’s seafood, meat, game and produce—are on full display in Ocean House’s culinary program. The all-inclusive package includes three daily sit-down meals served in the lodge’s dining room, during which you will savour inventive Haida-inspired cuisine while taking in water views (plus, depending on the angle of your chair, Moresby Island’s rolling hills). Menus include dishes like Haida dashi with kelp noodle, miso egg and soba, braised venison with sautéed wild mushroom and razor clam fritters. Also: packed lunches are handed out for guests going on excursions, with a spread of happy hour charcuteries, snacks and sweets waiting upon their return.
spa. The remote wilderness and fresh, clean air make staying at Ocean House Lodge a rejuvenating experience in itself. But, if you wish to take your bliss to the next level, book a service in the on-site spa. Start with a facial or massage using organic essential oils, then relax in the steam room or sauna while admiring the water views through floor-to-ceiling windows.